The auto scaling will usually adjust the model to fit a 2x2 area. The scale and offset settings will vary based on your. These new values are calculated when the model is imported into Zbrush. You’ll notice the Scale, X Offset, Y Offset, Z Offset now have different values. Check the same scaling and offset settings under the Tool->Export section.*The settings should be Scale: 0, X Offset: 0, Y Offset: 0, Z Offset: 0 Check the Tool->Export section settings.To find these automatic settings try the following: GoZ is one of those processes that does not make these adjustments. At least it usually automatically make these adjustments. How does Zbrush get around this issue? Simple, it automatically readjusts the scale of the model to fit within Zbrush’s ideal unit range for its brushes and toolset. This is fine if a model is 14mm x 14mm (1 unit = 1mm) but what if a model is 100mm x 100mm? As noted above this range is reasonably small in terms of Zbrush units. To prevent these issues and to keep brushes and tools working consistently as intended your model needs to be within a reasonable range of units inside Zbrush. Some brushes are dependent on both screen and model scale, i.e., the move brush will only move points within the brush size but only move them based on the model’s actual scale. Some brushes and tools are not affected as they are dependent on the screen scale and not the model scale. The opposite effect also happens when a model much smaller, i.e., the transpose scale will scale much bigger than the intended stroke. The same effect happens with tools like the transpose scale. In other words a very long stroke of the move brush may only move points on the model a small amount as if the stroke were much shorter. On a very large model brushes like the move brush don’t have the full effect of the intended stroke. However if you work on a model much larger than this range you may notice a problem with different brushes and tools. This is great if your model fits within these units. Zbrush’s brushes, transpose, and other tools work best at certain range of scale. You’ll also notice they look good in the Tool->Preview window. Most of Zbrush’s 3D Meshes (Cube, Cone, Ring, Polymesh star, etc.) are within 2 x 2 units. You’ll notice that even with high details these models are fairly small in dimension. Listed below are a few models’ rough estimate size in Zbrush units: If you look at the example models that come with Zbrush you’ll notice their dimensions are within a small area of Zbrush units. The Zbrush floor grid is only 14x14 units or +/- 7 units from the origin point of 0,0. However sometimes in 3D it’s just as important (or sometimes more important) that the actual units are correct, for example making a 3d print of the car at exact physical dimensions required by a client. This means the actual units of the model is not important but the proportions are, i.e., a character sitting in a car needs to be properly porportioned to the car. If anyone finds an error or false information let me know and I’ll update the corrections. It is based on my own observations and experimentation. The information and solutions in this post may not be 100% correct. I believe in teaching the why as it helps others to think of other solutions and problem solving better ways to doing things in their future projects. It also contains some of the explanation, or the why, behind what’s going on. Whether you go on to paint over the model for an illustration or use it as part of a 3D print project, you’ll have some amazing details on the underwater creature.This post contains solutions to some of the scaling issues between Zbrush and other programs. With a range of detailing alpha-textures, you can really make your sculpt ‘pop’ off the screen. I’ve made alpha images to use with the detailing brushes and I include them with this workshop’s resources. It’s where you get to add the finer details such as scales, wrinkles, pores, creases and cracks in a large dinosaur’s skin. The final step (tertiary detailing) is the one that I love the most. Understanding this sort of workflow, where you block out primary forms and pin down scales and dimensions, then focus on secondary forms (which includes large muscle groups and major landmarks) will help you grasp the fundamentals of ZBrush. To get you up to speed and simplify the process, I’m using the most basic of techniques, which is to add simple primitive shapes to block out the primary form and then use just three or four of the most popular Brushes to add detail. There are so many ways to start a project like this in ZBrush, and there are lots of confusing tools and feature names like Dynamesh, ZRemesher or the popular ZSpheres. Here I show how to tackle creating a large dynamic dinosaur sculpt. ZBrush is my favourite sculpting package by far, but people can find it intimidating when just starting out.
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